Review: Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge

In the decade-plus since Rwanda’s devastating 1994 genocide, tourism has been gradually rebounding, and emerging ventures that complement the country’s natural riches, including the much-anticipated Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, are now opening their doors. From the deep veranda of any of the eight chalets (outfitted in warm hues and African materials), you can see the mist-shrouded hills made famous by the late zoologist Dian Fossey. On one side are the slopes of Sabyinyo, one of five inactive volcanoes in the park, making this the first high-end lodging in an area that, along with the adjoining parks in Uganda and Congo, is the last refuge of the endangered mountain gorilla. The property, owned by a community trust and run by Governors’ Camp in Kenya, is a special hybrid of safari lodge and small hotel—with the best elements of both (good taste, deluxe bathrooms, attentive staff). In the ranch-style main building, with its sweeping views, there’s a dining room with a menu that aims for haute (but falls short) and two large sitting areas with plush sofas. Fireplaces in both public and private spaces are for those cold, mosquito-less evenings that follow a muddy day in the park, wandering behind your guide to see one of the gorilla troops. The walk of a few hours costs about $500, but gorilla sightings are guaranteed and the rare experience is worth every Rwandan franc.